Posts Tagged “NYC”

Is there anything finer than a good chocolate babka?  Probably not, but after bringing back no fewer than three such treats from New York City this weekend, I got to wondering, just what is babka, anyway?

Like so many of my favorite baked things, babka comes from Ashkenaz.  Wikipedia cites “Eastern European” origins, Russian etymology (Babka = бабка = grandmother), and savory variants from Belarus and Lithuania.  But none of those technicalities really get to the soul of the babka.

We all know that Jerry and Elaine spend a good portion of The Dinner Party seeking, discussing, dissecting and obsessing about babka. (I edited the spelling from “bobka” in the amateur transcription linked here) That’s a start.

JERRY: That’s the last Babka. They got the last Babka.

ELAINE: I know. They’re going in first with the last Babka.

JERRY: That was our Babka.

ELAINE: You can’t beat a Babka.

JERRY: We should have had that Babka.

My particular prize was a Green’s chocolate babka, private labeled for Zabars.  It’s a little flaky but mostly gooey, disturbingly heavy, and oddly parve.  A seemingly similar article can be found at Delancey Desserts.

A little poking around led to a recipe from of all people, Martha Stewart, which including milk, butter and cream, so definitely not that close to Green’s, but which does reveal the basic chemistry of the babka:

• 1 1/2 cups warm milk, 110 degrees
• 2 (1/4 ounce each) packages active dry yeast
• 1 3/4 cups plus a pinch of sugar
• 3 whole large eggs, room temperature
• 2 large egg yolks, room temperature
• 6 cups all-purpose flour, plus more for work surface
• 1 teaspoon salt
• 1 3/4 cups (3 1/2 sticks) unsalted butter, cut into 1-inch pieces, room temperature, plus more for bowl and loaf pans
• 2 1/4 pounds semisweet chocolate, very finely chopped
• 2 1/2 tablespoons ground cinnamon
• 1 tablespoon heavy cream

This makes three loaves, but we’re still talking 3/4 of a pound of chocolate per loaf, similar to a full bag of chocolate chips.  That’s got to have something to do with it.  Another variant from Su Good Sweets is Nutella Babka, which seems to mix in about 1/3 nutella with the chocolate.

Green’s babka is kosher, and depends on oil (palm, I hear) for fatty goodness, but that renders it parve, and allows it to be served more flexibly in kosher households.  A definite benefit for some that might impede the flavor for others.  I’ve never felt compelled to complain when my babka answers to a higher authority.

Should you find yourself in posession of a babka, be sure to warm it slightly before serving to bring the chocolate to the necessary state of gooeyness.

I should probably quit while I’m ahead, but I found a couple more babka notes that I must impart.  We’ve dwelled on chocolate babka so far, and while I won’t even mention the usual secondary or “lesser” babka variant, it appears that there are savory dishes also called babka.

Again, via wikipedia, there is the savory dish from Belarus and Lithuania: “It is made from grated potatoes, egg, onions, and smoked bacon. It is baked in a crock, and often served with a sauce of sour cream and pork flitch. Depending on recipe and cooking method it may be either a flaky potato pie, or a heavy potato pudding.”  Sounds delicious in its own right, but seems pretty far off from the sweet stuff, and awfully distant from anything kosher, too.

From Aloyada, we also have a Ukrainian fish babka, described as “…souffle-like. Which meant that when baked, it rose almost as much as a conventional souffle– but stayed puffed up and impressive. The egg yolks, milk, fried onion, bits of bread and stiff egg white give it a lovely light and very tasty texture; an aerated clear yellow omlette-style base in which the embedded pieces of fish and herbs (nutmeg and dill or tarragon) are delicious, subtle and moist.”  Also interesting, and maybe a little more likely to be related to the chocolate babka of ashkenaz.

Enticing as the savory options are, there will always be just one true babka for me, and unless I freeze some of it now, it’s not going to last till my next trip to New York.

I spotted this on West End Avenue between 70th and 71st street.

I have to wonder if the people who installed the plywood illustrated it, or if it was some passing artist.  Either way, I love New York.

There it is, proof that my crackpot calculations work. If you are irritated by particulars of the new MetroCard pricing scheme, you can still buy a card with an integral number of rides. But make sure you use plastic or have exact change, lest you end up with a handful of golden dollar coins featuring Paul Giamatti’s John Adams’ bug-eyed visage.

I like the vaguely mystical overtone that you have to know the secret code and apply it in exactly the right way in order to receive the magic number 18, for life. (חי)

In not entirely unrelated news, if you don’t visit New York City often enough, or worse, don’t ride the subway often enough, you might occasionally find that one of your MetroCards has expired while still holding value. Horrors.

If your card is less than a year expired, you can trade it in for a new one using one of the handy machines around the stations. If your card is older than a year, you’ll have to get one of these claim forms and mail in your ancient card. Ask at any friendly former token booth.

As you may know, the MTA in New York recently restructured fares.  They raised the price of monthly and weekly passes and altered the discount structure for buying stored-value cards, but kept the base fare the same at $2.00.

It used to be that if you put at least $10 on a metrocard, you’d get a 20% bonus - buy five rides, get one free.  Now, the deal is that you get only a 15% bonus but you get it for spending as little as $7.  Spend $7 and get a bonus of $1.05 for $8.05 which is four rides and a nickel.  Buy three and a half rides, get half a ride free and a nickel?

This nickel is driving some people nutty. 

I’m not sure why it would bother you if you keep refilling the same metrocard, but I guess some people like to throw away empty metrocards and don’t want to waste a nickel, or they’re just picky about those things.  (Hey, I shouldn’t throw stones, I like to sort my M&Ms by color before eating them.) (I like to, I don’t have to.)

I imagine this might be seen as a conspiracy by the MTA to retain nickels from millions of commuters and thereby pay off the ex-governor’s ho tab balance the budget.  But there’s a not too difficult solution:

$17.39

That’s the magic number.  Buy a $17.39 metrocard and you’ll get a 15% bonus up to an even $20.  Having trouble remembering that?  Here’s a list of some stuff that happened in 1739.  If that’s too much, and you’re a heavy user, try spending $40 on and getting bonused up to $46, an even 23 rides.

Or maybe the MTA should give you the option to donate all those nickels to charity.  But you can bet that if they ever reduced the discount to eliminate the annoying nickel, people would complain about losing it.  Now its just another odd bit of city living.

UPDATE:

I should have checked my facts. I should have checked my facts. I should have checked my facts.   On the way back from writing this post at a cafe, I tried it.  And you know what?  It did not work.  Why not?  Well, it turns out that you can’t buy a metrocard for an amount that’s not a multiple of $0.05 - the same annoying nickel.  If you up your bid to $17.40, you’ll end up with $20.01, a smaller excess, but excess nonetheless.

Here is an updated table of metrocard amounts that you can purchase that should result in integral numbers of $2 rides.  Note that I have not tested these yet.  (You’d think I would have learned, but I was too eager to get to redacting to check them all.)

Buy    - Get    - Rides
$15.65 - $18.00 -  9
$24.35 - $28.00 - 14
$31.30 - $36.00 - 18
$40.00 - $46.00 - 23

Perhaps I’ll make up stickers like the above and plaster them on the metrocard machines.  Power to the riders.