I do like to graze. It seems a shame to take a meandering walk home without first giving the local eateries along the way a look, or a bite. So I took a seat at the bar at Garden at the Cellar, Will Gilson’s localvore joint in the dwindling furniture district between Harvard and Central. I usually go right for the tomato herb soup with a grilled vermont cheddar sandwich, a double dose of superb comfort food for only $8, but tonight I was seduced by a special, lamb tongue confit with fava beans, lentils and fiddleheads:
It shouldn’t diminish this dish at all to say that it wasn’t as satisfying as the lengua served at Toro, but as good as the lamb tongue was, I have to say the bright green beans and fiddleheads upstaged it a bit. There was a generous portion of tongue chunks, tender and tasty in a rustic thick cut, identifiably lamb-flavored and different from the usual beef tongue you get.

I’ve also enjoyed fiddleheads recently at Hungry Mother, where they appeared with asparagus and ramps in another super-seasonal springy special.
Jumping back to Gilson, I should mention that he guest chef’d at the Savant Project a couple of weeks ago and served up (among other deliciousness) pickled ramps with oysters.
So spring is here, and the specials are flying. Get out there and graze some!
Tags: 02139, fiddleheads, spring, tongue
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